The shelves are crowded, and every bottle vyes for your dollar with flashy labels, rustic imagery and a contrived origin story. For that reason, I always seek out the understated ones; bottles that look like they could have been in circulation when your grandpa was still on the sauce. Maybe you’ll find one of his old favorites.
A project of the 2020 lockdowns, Brain Brew’s Dexter Three Wood straight bourbon is far from that, but its simple label exudes quiet confidence, and Edmund Dexter’s face on the bottle looks fit for a dollar bill. It also came highly recommended by the local liquor store owner, so color me sold.
What’s in a Name The personality behind the spirit is Edmund Dexter, apparently a prolific 1800s bourbon blender who entertained the likes of author Charles Dickens and the future King Edward at his home in Cincinnati — or so the bottle says. Despite the namesake, Three Wood doesn’t seem to have any real connection to Dexter besides common roots in Cincinnati.
Boneheads like myself may initially mistake it for a fairway reference, but the name Three Wood refers to the three woods used to finish the bourbon — Maple, Cherry and 200-year-old Oak. And they’re used to delightful effect.
Nose After a proper pop from the wood cork, you’ll find that Cherry makes a quick appearance, followed by butterscotch, orange, cinnamon and a hint of walnut. A deep breath in your glass will be met with a hint of octane, remember this 100.6 proof.
Taste Enjoyed neat, the first thing you’ll pick up on is vanilla followed by lingering Cherry wood. Cherry pairs so well with traditional bourbon flavors, and we’re only aware of certain Makers Mark and Woodford Reserve varieties that utilize it to such strong effect. Butterscotch and honey make a brief appearance midway through, followed by cinnamon and a lengthy outro of wood spice with an endearing burn.
At just over 52% ABV and aided by the late-profile flavors, the burn is right on the money. It’s just enough to keep you coming back for more, but strong enough to make you savor the pour. Put simply, save the sodas and garnish for a different spirit, but I do question if the Cherry would benefit from a slight chill.
Value Always a blend of price and preference, Dexter Three Wood delivers good value for money at $49. It’s pricier than some of its contemporaries, but the ever-shifting flavor profile and novelty of the Cherry wood merit the extra investment.
To sum it up, Three Wood is definitely a worthwhile purchase, and worth keeping around for bourbon brainiacs and relative newcomers as well. Cheers!
